HARPERS | Lenz Moser: Chinese market on brink of upswing
By Hamish Graham
Published: 16 July, 2025
Lenz Maria Moser, chief winemaker at China’s Chateau Changyu Moser XV, has said that despite the recent decline in consumption he anticipates a resurgence in the Chinese wine market.
Moser, a member of one of Austria’s most well-known winemaking families, has been active in China for 20 years, having held his present role at Chateau Changyu Moser XV since 2015. The project is a collaboration with Changyu, one of the world’s largest wine producers.
The decline in the Chinese market for wine has been driven by the Baijiu industry, the country’s traditional spirit sector. Baijiu has hugely expanded its market presence in its domestic market, investing in advertising and brand development at a scale far outstripping that of wine.
To put wine’s decline in context, in 2013 Chinese consumption stood at around 18m hl. The figure now stands at little over 6m hl.
Moser believes the wine trade has “become alienated from the consumer”, not producing in line with the latter’s needs.
He added: “Chinese people – especially the young, urban generation – are now more inclined toward spirits, long drinks and ready-to-drink products. Wine must reclaim its place.”
The winemaker remains optimistic, however, that an upturn is inbound.
He said: “After a phase of consolidation comes the upswing – and then the hockey stick. Only those who listen to the consumer again and offer wines with lightness, origin, emotion and a strong image will benefit.”
Among the trends and potential opportunities Moser has observed is the growth of white wine within the Chinese market, with products such as German Riesling at present enjoying healthy demand in the 1.4bn people nation.
On a similar note and akin to trends seen in other markets, lighter, more drinkable wines are gaining traction, while consumers are also becoming more interesting in wine’s sustainability credentials.
Women are a market cohort driving demand within China, often interested in unpretentious wines but with a tangible style. On this trend Moser reflected: “[Wines] should look super-premium but only cost premium.”
Expanding the wine market from luxury to everyday drinking is believed to be a vital tack to take in the world of Chinese wine. The winemaker mused: “If only 10% of the 1.4 billion Chinese regularly drank wine, the sky would be the limit.”
